Seoul balances its Joseon-dynasty palace heritage against a hyper-modern present more gracefully than almost any other Asian capital, centuries-old hanok tiled roofs sit within sight of some of the most technologically advanced skylines on earth.
Palaces and Hanok Villages
Gyeongbokgung, the largest of Seoul's five grand palaces, hosts a changing-of-the-guard ceremony in period costume several times daily, rent a hanbok (traditional dress) nearby for free palace entry, a popular and photogenic local custom.
Bukchon Hanok Village, a neighbourhood of traditional wooden houses between two palaces, is best visited early morning, by mid-morning it fills with photographers, and residents (it's a genuinely lived-in neighbourhood) have asked visitors to keep noise down.
K-Culture and Food
Myeongdong and Hongdae are the city's shopping and nightlife hubs respectively, the former dense with K-beauty shops and street food stalls, the latter younger, artier, and home to Seoul's indie music scene.
Korean barbecue and street food (tteokbokki, hotteok, Korean fried chicken) are best eaten at neighbourhood spots rather than tourist-facing chains, Gwangjang Market, one of the oldest markets in Seoul, is an excellent introduction to both.
Recommended Stay · Seoul · Jangchung-dong
Shilla Seoul
A long-standing five-star landmark set in landscaped gardens near Namsan, blending traditional Korean design elements with a genuinely excellent spa, a short taxi ride from both palaces and Myeongdong.