Fes el-Bali, the old medina, is thought to be the largest car-free urban area in the world, a genuine medieval city of over 9,000 narrow lanes still functioning as a living, working town rather than a preserved museum piece, home to the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD and recognised by UNESCO and Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating university on earth.
The Medina
Getting lost in the medina is inevitable and, to a large extent, the point, donkeys still carry goods through lanes too narrow for any vehicle, and the layout has changed little in centuries. Hiring an official guide for the first day is genuinely useful just for basic orientation before exploring independently.
The Chouara Tannery, dating back to the 11th century, remains in active use, visitors view the process from surrounding terraces, where hides are treated in a checkerboard of stone vats filled with dye and pigeon-dropping-based softening agents. Mint sprigs, handed out at the entrance, help with the smell.
Spiritual and Intellectual Capital
The University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri, in 859 AD, remains an active institution and place of worship, non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque itself, but its ornate exterior gates and courtyard are visible from the street.
The Bou Inania Madrasa, one of the few religious schools in Fes open to non-Muslim visitors, showcases the intricate zellige tilework, carved cedar, and stucco that define Moroccan Islamic architecture at its finest.
Recommended Stay · Fes · Medina
Riad Fes
A restored 19th-century riad within the medina walls, combining traditional zellige tilework and carved plaster with a rooftop pool overlooking the old city.
