Vilnius has one of the largest and best-preserved Baroque old towns in Eastern Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage site of church spires and courtyards that has become, in one small district, a self-declared independent republic run by and for artists. It's a quieter, less-visited alternative to the other Baltic capitals, and cheaper for it.
The Baroque Old Town
St. Anne's Church, a small Gothic masterpiece so admired that Napoleon reportedly wanted to carry it back to Paris brick by brick, anchors the old town's northern edge. Climb Gediminas' Tower on the hill above for a panorama over the old town's red rooftops and dozens of church spires.
Vilnius University's campus, dating to 1579, is woven directly into the old town's streets, its courtyards and the Church of St. John are open to visitors and give a sense of how the city has always blended religious, academic, and civic life in the same few blocks.
Užupis, the Artists' Republic
Užupis, a formerly rundown district across the river, declared itself an independent republic in 1997 as a joke that stuck, it has its own constitution (posted on a wall in dozens of languages), a president, and an anthem, and now functions as Vilnius's bohemian arts quarter with galleries, studios, and relaxed cafes.
The constitution's articles, worth reading in full, include lines like 'everyone has the right to be happy' and 'a dog has the right to be a dog', a good indication of the district's tone.
Recommended Stay · Vilnius · Old Town
Pacai Hotel
A 17th-century palace restored into Vilnius's top luxury hotel, with vaulted stone cellars, courtyard gardens, and a spa built into the original foundations.